Champion Potoato Peeler Depleted Wild Caught Fish Population - Consumers Should Research the Impacts of Farmed Products before Buying

Sherrie Peif, (Bio) speif@mywindsornow.com
May 2, 2008

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Growing up along the Chesapeake Bay of Virginia, I have recognized both the bounty and crisis the ocean can present. As a young boy, I can remember fishing from Harrison's Pier and catching more fish than I could possibly have eaten. At certain times, it was hard for me to understand when my father said, "We need to throw that one back." The fish had to be a particular length or we just weren't allowed to catch a certain species at that time of year. Spawning season and fish population drive the regulations quota implemented by state, federal and global authorities for almost all areas fished in the world today. The seas have certainly changed from my childhood.

Globally, there are species in a population decrease that is "catching" the attention of more than just folks in the seafood industry. Blue fin tuna has taken an alarming decline in population of 97% from 1960 to present, according to ICCAT (International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas). Caspian Sea sturgeon is believed to be depleted 90% from the last two decades. Some experts say sturgeon could be extinct within 14 years. Most currently, is the collapse of the California and Oregon wild salmon industry. The commercial fishing season is banned for 2008 and until April of 2009 due to an estimated decrease in population. Recreational salmon fishing will likely be closed in this area after a ruling on May 9th.

The salmon, in particular, leave a huge hole for menu planning of many restaurants. A fish that has been a "go to" for many years in my repertoire of recipes will not be readily available. King salmon season is set to open in May from British Columbia up to Alaska. But at what price will we be paying for this salmon, even at wholesale costs?

Stephen Pellegrino of Northeast Seafood Products, out of Denver, said "I will not be surprised to see wild salmon prices soar to 30 and 35 dollars a pound."

An estimated 400,000 pounds of wild caught salmon absent from the market represented by California alone will strain all other Pacific wild caught salmon pricing.

Being a chef that carefully sources sustainable and mostly organic foods, I am somewhat skeptical of the term "farm raised seafood". Aquaculture is the cultivation of aquatic sea life. Some say that the increased consumption of farmed seafood products will aid the rebound of wild population. The argument can be made on the negative environmental impacts and less than wholesome seafood that is being produced. The stories we hear of aquaculture and near ocean farms harming the wild habitat due to fish waste, chemicals, colorants and antibiotics do have truth to them.

The USDA, which has guidelines for other food products, does not have standards for seafood. With consumer demand for more fish and today's trend of healthy food sources, some companies are changing the industry standards. The USDA did grant OceanBoy Farms in Florida a certified organic green label for its shrimp in 2005. Creative Salmon out of British Columbia, Canada practices an organic philosophy that produces a nutritionally wholesome King salmon. Other "claimed to be" organically raised seafood from the US and other countries are available to most restaurants and markets. Be aware, there can be fishy things going on behind those labels. As a consumer, ask your fish monger questions of where the seafood is being farmed. Ask what the producers are feeding the fish. Research the farms directly via their Web site and other sources to opinionate whether your purchase of their product is helping the return of wild stock in our oceans.

For more information, view these helpful and informative Web sites.

www.fishwise.org and www.seafoodbusiness.com.

Jason Shaeffer is chef and sole proprietor of Chimney Park Restaurant and Bar 406 Main Street in Windsor. Shaeffer is a Virginia native and a graduate of Johnson and Wales University. Chef Shaeffer trained under 4 different recipients of Food and Wine Top American Chefs, most notably Thomas Keller of The French Laundry and Per Se. He can be reached at 686-1477.